||You do not necessarily need to jack the front of the vehicle up or remove
the front tire, however doing so will make the installation easier. I just turned the front wheels out and worked
behind them and had no trouble. That choice is yours, however be sure to properly support the vehicle with
jackstands if you choose to jack it up. DO NOT work underneath it supported only by a jack!
||Loosen and remove the bottom bolt from the shock You will need an 18mm
socket to do this. It bolts into a threaded mount on the lower A-frame so there is no nut on it.
||Remove the nut from the top mounting stem. You will need to hold the
stem with a Crescent wrench and use an open-end wrench to loosen the nut (sorry, I don't remember what size open-end
wrench is required).
||Drop the original shock out and remove it.
||Install the top of the new shock into the mount. A bushing will
go on the plate on the top of the shock, then the shock will go through the mount on the frame, another bushing on top,
a retainer washer, and then a nut. In other words the mount on the frame is sandwiched between two bushings.
The retainer plate on the shock is below the lower bushing and a large retainer washer is on top of the top bushing.
Hand tighten the nut only for now.
||IMPORTANT! You MUST use a new nut on the top stem of the shock or use Mopar Lock-N-Seal or Loctite 242 to
secure the nut if you use the old nut. Failure to do so may result in the nut backing off with very bad results!
||Compress the shock slightly and install the bottom bolt. Hand
tighten only at this point. Rancho shocks compress relatively easy, however other brands may be difficult.
If it is difficult to compress the shock, jack the vehicle up enough to get the shock in the bracket, and support it with
jackstands before proceeding. DO NOT work underneath it supported only by a jack!
||Tighten the lower bolt to 80 ft lb of torque.
||Tighten the upper bolt to 19 ft lb of torque. This is somewhat
difficult to do because you will have to use a crows-foot wrench and calculate a correction for your torque wrench.
The stem must be held at the top with a Crescent wrench or 6mm wrench otherwise the piston will just turn inside the
shock body as you tighten the nut. A crows-foot wrench is basically an open-end wrench that fits on a torque
wrench or ratchet. Since it effectively increases the length of the torque wrench this causes the torque setting
to be off. You will have to measure the distance between the center of the wrench end of the crows-foot and the
center of the drive point. Refer to the instructions that came with your torque wrench for details. If you
do not have them I can send you the information that came with mine, however it may not be correct for your wrench!
||An alternative to using a crows-foot wrench for the top stem is to
"Eyeball" the tension. The instructions that came with your shocks will usually describe this, and basically it
is just tightening the nut until the bushings are compressed a certain amount.